My new bike: Polygon Path X5

It feels like starting blog posts with “so I crashed my bike” is going to be a thing. So anyway, I crashed my new bike. Down a cliff, in the bush.

I think this means it has enough wear and tear on it for a review, but lets starts with why.

There’s several reasons:

  • Alex has a cool bike
  • I want to be able to carry more shopping home easier
  • I’d like to visit further away cafes without having to carry my backpack
  • Bike camping? Bike camping
  • I’ve been riding a lot more and can justify the investment

So JSON is great and all. I’m still going to do the rebuild and respray. However JSON can be quite limiting. With no panniers I have to wear a backpack if I need to transport anything. The geometry isn’t well suited for my bad back. I want to ride places that wouldn’t be suitable for JSON.

Alex last year found a great deal. The Cannondale Quick 1. A flat bar bike, nice geometry and Shimano 105 group set for $1,600. My initial thought was “I’ll just copy her”, however it seems that the Quick 1 was sold out in most places.

I went exploring other options. Things that were appealing to me were:

  • Group sets that weren’t low end (Shimano makes this so so very complex)
  • Brifters / dropbars
  • Mounting points for panniers
  • XL frame size
  • Hydraulic disc brakes
  • No suspension
  • Aluminium frame
  • Sub $2,000 AUD

This combination was surprisingly hard to find. The two bikes I did find were the REID Granite 4.0 and the Polygon PATH X5. The Granite 4.0 was out of stock in XL and I could only find the PATH X5 online through bikesonline.

I was extremely nervous about buying a bike without giving it a test ride before however good reviews and a promise that it could be returned in 30 days if it didn’t fit it seemed like something worth trying.

Olive green bike resting against tree with pannier rack and trunk bag installed

I am incredibly happy I did because this bike feels so good to ride. The geometry fits me really well, and it has a Shimano 105 group set, drop bars and hydraulic disc brakes. Assembly was a breeze. Somehow this thing has even survived me riding it off a cliff. Total shipped was $1,834.

The first thing I did was load up the bike with accessories. I’ve splurged a lot here because I want this bike to work for me. I’ve gone with the Topeak MTX pannier rack - allowing for the trunk bag to quickly be put on and removed. However I’ve actually been using Tourbon clip on backpacks. This allows me to stash my laptop and work equipment quickly on the bike and have a decent bag to carry it around the city.

Olive green bike with backpack pannier resting against park bench overlooking the yarra river

For visibility I’ve fitted Garmin UT800 front light and Gardia R300L rear light. I picked these purely because I wanted to play with ANT+ lights. I really don’t recommend anyone spending this sort of money on lights. At least for me the ANT+ integration is a bit clunky and it does feel very much like a gimmick more than a feature. However what does stand out is the Gardia R300L radar. I didn’t realise how much I’d love the radar functionality. It is able to detect approaching vehicles from fairly far away and in a noisy city environment this is super handy when you don’t notice a car sneaking up on you.

Now the bike isn’t flawless, but it’s pretty damn close. The first is mudguards. For some reason the mounting hole you usually find where rim brakes are is 90 degrees from where I expected. This results is mudguard selection being very limited as a lot of mudguards will want to mount here. The other issue is the rims are entirely nameless. I assume that they aren’t tubeless ready as if they were they likely would be advertising it, so if I do go down that route I’ll probably have to rebuild the wheels.

I mentioned bike camping. This is one of the reasons I wanted to get a gravel or hybrid bike. While we have the LandCruiser to explore far away places, I wanted to test the idea of staying at places a little bit closer to home. With VLines fares capped at $9.20 the concept of taking my bike on the train, riding to camp site, and exploring the area without the need of a car seems super compellingly. I’m a bit away starting one of these journeys but I’m getting close, so stay tuned for that.

Restoring new old stock pedals

I ordered some old style bicycle pedals for my bike, JSON. These have a black outer body and a silver shaft assembly. They really suit the bike well and come with toe clips which match the pedals of the bike when I originally received it.

Pedals with toe clips in packaging

Unfortunately when I received the pedals I noticed the shafts didn’t spin very freely and I could feel the bearings biting. These wouldn’t be suitable to ride on. My theory at this point is that these were new old stock and the grease had gone bad. If I could sneak some oil in there maybe they would be fine. There was two problems with this theory - it wasn’t just a grease problem (I should have known this, I think it was just wishful thinking), and removing the dust cover to get to the bearings was a challenging task. The cap was so tightly held in that I ended up breaking the metal body when trying to remove it.

Pedal with cracked housing
I was going to give up at that point however Alex suggested that I should probably ask the store if they would still warranty it. An email was sent apologising for damaging while trying to repair them and I asked if they would still be ok with processing a warranty. They agreed and asked if I wanted a replacement or a refund.

This was a surprisingly difficult question to answer. I wanted this style of pedal, but if all the pedals had the same fault what was I to do?

Searching various places selling these style pedals new they all seemed to share common reviews:

  • No bearing - only plastic bushing - broke quickly
  • Bearing doesn’t spin freely or is seized
  • Pedal broke after short amount of time

I also had a look at eBay for used pedals that would fit my needs. The problem I found was the total shipped price was prohibitively expensive and even if I paid that, there was no guarantee that the bearing races haven’t been badly pitted.

Looking careful I could determine that most of the new products sold likely all come from the same manufacturer with different brands painted on the side. Some models had bearings that didn’t work, some had plastic bushings and some had weak body.

It seems like the pedals I bought fit into the bearings that didn’t work category. Now I don’t know if its because these are old stock and age has gotten to them, or if the manufacturing process is really poor but the bearings out of the box are certainly not fit for purpose.

After a lot of internal debating I ended up with a plan - I would ask for a replacement and attempt to rebuild the bearings.

Rebuild time

The first step was removing the pesky dust cover. This time I took the approach of removing everything from the pedal assembly first. The rear reflectors can be pushed and levered off while the toe cage can be removed by sliding the reflector out and undoing the two bolts. This making it much easier to work on - plus as I was doing a full rebuild I would need access anyway. It’s a good idea to do one pedal at a time so you have a reference pedal.

Main pedal assembly held in vice
I placed the main body into a vice and tightened it softly - the point here was just to have something holding the assembly, so it doesn’t have to be super tight. I then used some very small side cutters edge to slide/cut into the side. Because of the tight circular shape things like screwdrivers don’t work very well here. The sharp point on the side cutter allowed me to get inside and then I could lever it out. It took a few goes, and does slightly damage the cap - however it’s the least damaged from all the tools I’ve tried so far. Other pedal designs usually have a grove you can use a screwdriver with - these do not.

If you are trying to get these kind of cheap new(ish) pedals working you actually have a bit of a choice here. I found there to be two problems with my pedals - the grease wasn’t great and the bearing preload was set wrong. You can choose not to do a full rebuild if you are happy with the grease provided - you can just set the preload. This is the easiest option and probably fine for most people. If this is the case - skip to the section labelled “preload”.

At this point, lay down a towel or a rag. Something that will stop ball bearings from rolling away. Using a 9mm socket and a spanner or shifter on the other end, undo the locking nut.

Pedal with locking nut removed

Inside the shaft will a slotted washer followed by another thin nut/bearing race. I didn’t have any thin walled socket that would fit down there, however since the assembly isn’t under any load this nut should be fairly loose. You should be able to use a pair of tweezers to undo this nut. At this point be careful though as you’ll be freeing the bearings. Sit the shaft upright so that the end that usually attaches to the bike is on the table when removing this nut, otherwise the body can slide off the shaft and drop bearings everywhere.

View of inside pedal showing bearings
At this point you should be able to see the bearings. Now is a great time to count them, or at least take a picture. We’ll want to make sure we put the right amount back in. I removed all the bearings with tweezers and put them into a nice little pile. For me there was 14 on both sides of the shaft. There might be bearings stuck of the bearing race/nut that we removed.

After those bearings are removed I suggest flipping the pedal over and carefully remove the shaft. Mine has a rubber seal on the bike end. Once again remove the bearings.

Desk with cloth down and pedal parts layed out

Clean all the grease off the bearings, clean the shaft and housings. Once everything is cleaned the assembly process is much the same as the disassembly process. I used red truck and farm grease. It’s probably fine. Spread grease into the bearing races to hold the bearings in place. Make sure you count the bearings to ensure none are missing or you haven’t put too many in. Remember to install the race/nut the correct way, followed by the washer and locking nut - don’t tighten all the way yet. Just enough to keep the bearings from falling out.


Getting bearing preload right is critical, and it can sometimes be the most time consuming part of this process. At both ends of the shaft is a effectively a cup and a cone. By tightening up the nut/race we are removing some of the space the bearings have to wobble around.

Ideally we want there to be no wobble or play. However if we tighten up the assembly too far the bearings will be pressing into the metal, causing a lot of friction and preventing the shaft from spinning. Too tight will cause damage to the bearings and the races. The goal here is to have the assembly as tight as possible without impacting the friction of the bearings.

Tighten up the race/nut with the tweezers. I suggest tightening this up until the shaft doesn’t spin freely anymore. At that point back it off until the shaft spins freely again. Now with the 9mm socket, tighten up the locking nut. When you do this, additional pressure will be added to the race. It’s likely the shaft might have too much friction at this point. Undo the locking nut again, and adjust the race/nut to loosen the race. I was doing probably 1/16 turns when I was adjusting mine, so very small adjustments everytime. Check for play as your doing this. The shaft shouldn’t move in or out, and there should be so side to side wobble.

It’s sometimes hard to strike a good balance. I would favour a bit of play over additional friction on the bearings if thats the only choice.

Reinstall the dust cover. I found it quite hard to put in and resorted to the vice. I didn’t want to use the vice as it’ll be putting pressure on the bearings and shaft but I found it the only suitable way to get the cover in. Reassemble the outer body, straps and reflectors.


Was it worth it? Well they certainly spin more freely on my desk, but I’ll have to have them on the road for quite a bit before I can give a final verdict.

In the meantime, here’s my partner comparing one I rebuilt vs the original.

Me vs. tree branch - Garmin incident detection (I guess Bike Brakes Part 2)

So my next blog post was meant to be on how the brake install went. The good news is the brakes work great - I’ll get into more details on that later. HOWEVER while riding out to somewhere nice where I intended to take some nice picture I had a bit of an incident - so lets talk about that first.

I split off the Bay trail to grab some coffee, eat some food and slap on some sun screen. While attempting to rejoin the bay trail I found myself a little bit confused as to the route and ended up on a footpath rather than a shared path. I spotted where my turn was meant to be and while focused on that it hit me. Well more specifically I hit it. A low hanging branch.

Helmet which has a large indent from impact of a tree branch

I’m not sure if I didn’t see it, correctly identify it’s height, or if I stood up to ride, but I hit it - likely at around 12km/hr. Lucky I wasn’t going faster. Next thing I know I was on the ground wondering wtf just happened. I remember seeing my Garmin count down from 6 seconds (I believe it starts at 30 seconds so there’s 24 seconds somewhat unaccounted for). Since I was on the ground, still processing everything and unsure if I was ok I let the timer count down.

SMS from Garmin with a link to incident location

This triggered an SMS with location details and starts live location sharing with my partner. After I had worked out that I was somewhat ok I stopped the incident on Garmin, and sent a message to say I was fine.

My bike on the ground after crash with my ripped jeans

Since I’ve had my Garmin Fenix 6S Pro I’ve recorded 585 activities and only 2 other times have I had incident detection trigger when I was fine. One time was when my watch band broke, and the other was mounting a curb and coming to a hard stop. Both of these are some what reasonable that incident detection triggered.

I am very glad for this system, as had I passed out it would have been over half an hour before someone would otherwise notice (this is the time I sat next to my bike recovering)

Folded in brake levers from the crash
Unlike myself the bike only received a small amount of damage. Brake lever scratched and rotated in and handlebar alignment off. Brake callipers needed adjusting but otherwise everything seems fine. After doing some field repairs I eventually made it to the park I was aiming for.

Bike parked next to the lake on a raised deck overlooking the water and island
I even rode home the route I planned, however I was feeling very sore when I got home. I’ve got some scratches and bruises but I think I’ll be fine in a few days.

Given I was riding as an alternative to running for recovery purposes I’m not happy about the incident.

So with that out of the way, let’s talk brakes.

Inline brakes

Inline brakes installed on the dropbars

These were a breeze to install. I’m missing some end caps here and the grip tape ends is a temporary thing while I work everything out. The hardest part was working out how to mount my light given all the space is taken now by the brakes. I have end caps in storage but I wanted to test everything out first.

First off, the myth that inline brakes make the system spongy is clearly false. If you go back to part 1 of this series you’ll see that the brake cable is uninterrupted for inline brakes. There is no reason why adding inline brakes would make the system worse. My suspicion is that people think that inline brakes are spongy is that they are often installed on brake systems that are already spongy. The inline brakes themselves have a lot of pull - keep this in mind.

While I still haven’t gotten used to their presence, I have already adjusted my riding style. I’m sitting in a much more comfortable position while casually riding and not having to get into the drops to slow down. This is great in the city. I still find myself sometimes moving my right hand down to the original lever out of habit, but a lot less now. Tight corners are now much easier to manage.

And the back brake is getting a lot more use now - since I don’t have to get into the drops I now apply a lot more even braking. Where this is extremely useful is red lights and other stops. Previously I would brake to slow down, stop braking, move my hand to the gear lever to move into the lowest gear, then move my hand back to brakes to come to a complete stop. Now I can use my rear inline brake while changing gears with my other hand and perform the action all at once.

Dual pivot brakes

I ended up with the Tektro R559 dual pivot long reach brakes. The frame / wheel combination I have means that I’m on the higher limit of typically short reach brakes and the lower limit of typical long reach brakes. If I ever buy a new set of callipers again I might try to gamble on short reach brakes. Currently though the long reach brakes do give me the option to switch in a 700c wheel….

So while you can sometimes pick up traditional nut style brakes, it’s more common to find recessed style. These have a shorter shaft and a long recessed nut that is used to hold the brakes in place. I purchased these brakes knowing that the recessed style wouldn’t fit my bike out of the box.

There’s some solutions to mounting these brakes though. The most common is to drill out the back hole (usually using a right angle drill for the rear brake) to allow the recessed nut to fit.

Rear of the bike showing that the front brake has been installed on the rear

The other option that’s also sometimes available is to use the front brake (has a longer shaft) on the rear brake. How do you install the front brake then? For me I was lucky enough to be able to fit the nut through the bottom of the forks. This only gives half the mounting distance than typical however I believe it’s plenty.

The rear brake being installed on the front showing no protrusion out the back of the fork as its been locked of from within the tube

For both the rear and front shafts I found I could only use one of the wedge locking washers, but once again - I feel like this is plenty. If this doesn’t provide enough friction the outcome is that the brakes could become unaligned and start rubbing while riding. It’s not catastrophic failure.

I’m happy with having the brakes mounted this way as it means I don’t have to make permanent changes to the bike frame and if I want to I can reinstall the original brakes.

Other changes

I’ve installed some new toe cage peddles. I was a bit nervous installing these again as they can add a certain amount of risk in casual riding, but I’ve been pretty happy so far with them. They certainly look the part. Unfortunately the NOS I purchased, the grease had gone bad. I’ve tried my best to get some oil in there, but I’m going to either flush out all the grease somehow or do a rebuild. Neither of which I can do easily right now.

Basket cage peddles

Lastly I’ve updated my Kmart bike lock to ABUS. Hopefully no one steals my lock. This lock feels very over engineered but I like it. It’s spring loaded and pops out when you unclip it.

ABUS folding bike lock installed in one of the bottle cage mounts

That’s all the upgrades I want to do for now. Sometime next year I plan to strip all the parts off, de-rust, de-paint and give it a brand new paint job.